The room March 12, 2026 6 min read
Meet the Tuesday bakers
The two people who arrive at four in the morning so the counter is full by seven.
Written by Mara Lind
Most of what you buy here before nine in the morning was made by two people you will probably never meet, because they have gone home by the time the room fills up.
Priya, four to eleven
Priya runs the lamination. She came to us from a bread bakery and spent her first month quietly rebuilding our croissant schedule from a two-day process to a three-day one, which is why the layers changed last spring. If you have noticed the croissants got better, that was her and she will deny it.
Tomas, five to noon
Tomas handles everything sweet and everything that goes in the oven twice. The cardamom buns are his recipe, adapted from his grandmother's and, by his own account, still not as good.
What their morning looks like
The ovens go on at 4:15. The first croissant tray is in by six and out by half past, and the second goes in at nine so there is something warm at mid-morning. Between those, everything else: the frangipane, the cookie dough that was portioned yesterday, the buns that proved overnight.
By the time the first guest walks in at seven, the day's baking is essentially finished. It is the least visible shift in the building and it is the one the whole counter rests on.
